Cooling...

[Gee tc]

Following the recent posts about the hot weather and overheating/fuel evaporation issues, I've taken a spare radiator in locally for a recore.
Having examined the one I took in, the reconditioner says that it's double rowed and each tube is around 13mm apart. They're suggesting that a 10mm gap between rows will have a beneficial effect with a 25 to 30% cooling capacity increase. He said the best thing that we could do would be to somehow shroud our radiators if possible to ensure good airflow through.
I'll get my quote back tomorrow and let you know.
My intention, if quote is acceptable, is to have it done in readiness for the nationals and to put the original air cleaner back on replacing the two pancakes that have been on the engine since putting back it on the road.
If it breathes better then performance should be better and I'll be able to turn the mixture down a bit.
Hopefully the intake will be cooler with a vortex effect going past the carb jets. Less fuel burning more efficiently is much cooler and a better power band..
I'll let you know.
T

[scruffylookingnh]

I see you're in Chester? I just spoke with Chris at North Wales Radiators (based in Deeside) yesterday, as it happens. Following discussions with a couple of club members I'm looking to go down the recore route for my GT. The suggestion is having the rotten core replaced with a double rowed Sherpa core. Chris said it was doable but has quite the workload on at the moment so it would take a couple of weeks. To give you an idea of price he thought it would be in the area of £180 if VAT included... which sounds like a great deal.

I also spoke to Kevin at Northwich Radiator Services. Very friendly guy who thought he could turn it around in less than a week depending on when his supplier could get him a core. He was looking at approx £200 but both this and the quote above were very much rough estimates as it would come down to condition of original ends, etc.

Simon

[david painter]

Sherpa Radiator core is what I use with the later Ital shielding removed mecanical fan and electric pusher fan fitted with temp switch off a Peugeot
Dave

[SLOW ITAL]

Yes me too, Sherpa core, & electric fan on Ital...
Gil..

[david painter]

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If I find the table for on off fan switch temps I will add later
Dave

[Gee tc]

Getting the rad done by DRS in Widnes.
£230. With extra capacity as detailed above.
Double rowed with 10mm gap.

[Gee tc]

Quick update on the cooling..
So, pending the radiator fitment, yesterday I swapped out the twin pancake filters for an original TC version with a fresh filter and weakend the mixture on each carb by 2/3rds of a turn as it needed to be richer to run smoothly previously. This also enabled me to turn down the idle speed screws to an acceptable level.
Having freed off the clutch and an oil change with a dose of Slik50 I took it out tor a run in 27degree heat.
Pleased to report with cooler airflow into the engine and more vortex suck across each jet its running nicely with the power band spread over a much wider range.
Again the car runs well and at a good temperature on the gauge apart from idling which is now much better with the cooler finer mixture but with the standard rad and fan still gets warm with the electric fan kicking in at 100 degrees on the dail setting . This also kicks in when switching off as the heat rises to the top off the engine but nowhere near as bad as it was.
However I do need, if anybody can help please, the 4 bolts and shaped washers that secure the TC air cleaner housing to the manifold which I've lost despite searching.
T

[Gee tc]

So, I trialed the new radiator during the recent nationals weekend.
It went well with a wider power band and drove much better, keeping cool in standing traffic and no hint of overheating when stopping after stressful driving.
I binned off the electric fan at the same time. With the original air cleaner and weakening the mixture it's made all the difference and my mpg is much improved also!
David P... Yours is looking great!

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

[Mandator]

Noticed couple of weeks ago Temperature rising a tad above normal on Kermit - nothing serious but today decided to investigate.
Slight leak around Thermostat cover has meant water level has dropped so decided to cut a new gasket. On removing the cover noticed to branch for the hose badly corroded and am looking for a new cover.
Trouble is no-one seems to stock the cover I need. 1980 1300cc A Series cover with the nylon inspection/filler plug on top. Plenty of 1300s without the plug, funny thing is ANG sell replacement Brass plugs but not the actual cover. It does seem no-one remanufactures said part .......Unless someone knows better

[Mandator]

Took Kermit out for a short run last week and on return pretty close to overheating, just showing red!
Checked the water and was very very low. So....now have two problems. Using Oil and Water.
Suspected worn valves and piston rings (as compression is down) but am now wondering if Head Gasket is shot. Have ordered one, just in case, and this will give me the opportunity to check the valves and rings, as I now have no excuse to put the job off!
My main worries are:
Rings or, worse, bores shot.
Valve guides worn.
Cracked block.
Cracked head.

There is no evidence of water in the oil so am assuming water and oil is leaking past the gasket into the combustion side of the engine, and thus being thrown out the exhaust pipe.

Any suggestions?

[MarinaCoupe]

If you can squirt a little oil into the bores through the spark plug holes, you can check whether your compression problems are rings or valves. The oil helps seal the rings, so if you use the compression tester and the pressure goes up, then that indicates ring wear. If it makes no difference then it’s the valve seats and valve guides.

[Woody]

Hi folks, talking all things cooling. I'm planning on doing a rad flush shortly and wondered if you recommend a specialist anti-freeze for the older engine?

Cheers

[MarinaCoupe]

I use Comma G48 Xstream, available from Halfrauds.

[Woody]

Thanks Chris