The Ferry ride to Stewart Island was a blast. The aluminium catamaran literally throws itself at that stretch of water known for its failure to stay horizontal. Not for those who suffer travel sickness methinks - but we had a terrific time standing out on the rear deck, trying to stay upright when not holding on.
An hour and we were ensconced in the pub at Oban and enjoying a coffee as we decided where to head first..
We began on foot - there are few roads here, as most of the population live in this town, whilst the majority of the area is accessible on foot or by sea. There were a few showers to make walking far a nuisance, so we hired a car for $30 and covered the entire place from end to end. Very pretty place, and scheduled for a revisit..
Virtually entirely clad in native bush, this is probably what most of NZ once looked like..
Late in the afternoon we made the return trip to Bluff, and finished our ride with a rather spectacular race with the pilot launch - we had more horsepower...
A second night in the camp at Bluff and we headed away to Invercargill and beyond. We followed the coastline west and reached the farthest southern point of the highway. The distant point marks the extreme southwest corner of the south island - sparsely populated and rugged.
From here the highway turns north and begins to take us back to the mountains and lakes..
I can still rattle off the names of the major lakes, once learned in high school geography. We would visit them in reverse order. Manapouri came first..
Then Te Anau - vast bodies of water they are, like stumbling across an inland sea..
From here we had to head east to link up with the central highway to Queenstown - one of the most popular winter destinations. We had some fuel management issues on this stretch, and finally gasped our way to a card-operated pump at Kingston, right at the base of Lake Wakatipu. It was getting dark, and it was quite amazing to see the skifield all lit up for night action..
We lucked into a motor camp in the dark, just before Queenstown. Spent the night in a large apartment beneath the owners house, and woke to some cool views up the lake..
Cool it was.! The car handled the cold starts fine, and was behaving perfectly well, despite its large load. We had all we needed aboard, and that included 90% of the food for the entire trip. We were eating our way to better fuel economy.!
We skipped Queenstown and headed up to Arrowtown, which is very old and quaint. Had a good wander about and headed up the Crown range - quite a steep zigzag climb that we roared up with ease. 2 litres helps. Great vantage point to observe the area - this is a zoom back towards Queenstown..
The Crown range road is unpassable often during winter, but the current fine spell meant it was excellent motoring even at the highest point..
Not surprising most people have 4wd's here though. We had a few slidey bits along the way - nothing that had us reaching for the insurance papers, but you need your wits about you. Back down towards Wanaka we passed this lovely old pub - still operating, and probably doing ok with the skifields nearby.
Reached Wanaka early afternoon - another tourist destination, so we were not going to loiter too long. Checked out the township, and joined the folks down at the waterfront in the sunshine.
It was sure looking sweet - wouldn't mind a dollar for every camera that clicks here today...
An obliging local even took a pic of us doing the tourist thing. Was wishing we had brought the kayaks about now...
This is me feeling fit and healthy at 58.!
Scientific nutrition works.!
We left Wanaka heading for the Haast Pass and the West Coast. Our destination tonight would be Hokitika - and from there it would be a relaxing days hop back across the Alps to Christchurch and home. It was Sunday, and we both had work Tuesday.
I knew there was a petrol station at Hawea, and very little from there on, so we decided that would be our best chance of going the distance.
Mistake.
On a sunday there was only a card operated pump, and our card was not the right colour. Back to Wanaka again and fill it to the top. For the second time we drove through Hawea and began heading up that majestic lake.
The road crosses back to lake Wanaka before winding up into the mountains and over the Haast. It was getting later in the afternoon now, and we had lost time with our fuel miscalculation, so I was keen to get some miles behind us before the sun ended its job of keeping the ice at bay. The Pass is not a place to hang around.
I shall at this point let you in on a little known skill concerning Morris Marinas.
It concerns the fastest way to change the fluid in the auto.
Its simple.
DON'T AVOID THE ROCK..!!
I didn't see it in time to even swerve really.
Pity - considering the miles of rough roads we had travelled with me keeping the very low auto clear of the hazards.
There was a great commotion as it went under the car - just on my side of centre.
I looked in the mirror and saw bits of rock and several other bits - obviously ours - bounce along the road.
Bother.!
Stopped and leaned out the door to look underneath.
Fluid spewing from the gap where the filler pipe used to be.
Needed to get off the road fast, and as luck would have it, a pulloff area appeared on our right, and I swung into it as we lost drive.
I ran back up the road to retrieve whatever I could find before someone ran over it - perhaps it could be repaired...
Found both pieces of the filler pipe mostly intact, and the dipstick with the handle end broken off.
Returned to the car and rolled it back so I could look underneath without lying in the last remains of our auto fluid..
It was pretty evident where most of it had gone...
I suppose - if you really have to break down - this was a very pleasant place to do it...
.. mind you - it would not be pleasant in a few hours, so we needed to do something pretty quickly.
Hmmm.
30k from Wanaka on a Sunday.
Not liking our chances...
..