Fast Marina Magazine

Well it's been a good day today having the whole day to mess with the pick up 90% there know just got some more wiring and a couple of brackets and a little bit of welding todo and she's all ready for a rolling road just a picture to show the progress

Looking good


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started ours up moved it round the workshop back to welding

Restarted work on yellow Ital this week. Slow progress at first, Been off the road since August 2011..Spent first day tracking down parts (now where did i put that) & trying to remember how & where things fit...
Fitted new quick rack, read up Killroy's superb article on refurbing front suspension (twice)
& biting bullet made a start ....well its on, can't get the measurements exactly the same as article for retentioning torsion bars but done my best...
Well its a start , i think most things are pointing in the right direction, then went on to Bens front brake upgrade...
Can't fit new hub havn't bought bearings yet but trial fitted calliper,
Looks a bit odd, fitted it trailing like standard...
Found Bens demo piccy's..... oops should have fitted it leading... that looks better...
Got grease through trunnions & top ball joint, torqued it all up, thats it so far...
Disc stone guards don't line up, have to see if i can mod them?...
Other stuff next week, but ree you at Peterborough next Sunday.
Gil...

Gave her a wash and Aqua Wax after the Sooty Nationals!


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Pics from Gil
















Chris

Changed and cleaned my front brakes, they've been squeeky since I brought her and I finally had enough.
Whilst not a big job to some, before today I had never even changed a wheel so I'm quite chuffed.
No more squeeky brakes and I even managed a grown up skid

Today, done the timing. 3rd attempt to have a go. Thwarted by this and that two previous times. Car was set to 15 degrees BTDC! Now 7 degrees BTDC. Drives better but engine still gets too warm though.

Last week because of the thwart, I changed the oil and filter. The week before, I checked and set the points (after Quorn) and the day before Quorn I'd fitted a pattern fuel pump - one of those I've been told the lever pops out of and falls in the sump. So I peened the casting over a bit more with a centre punch. Oh, and in keeping with the usual old car bodgery, at least when I buy any old car, the old SU fuel pump came off with NO gaskets - just traces of Hermetite Red on the flange. No wonder it leaked oil as well as fuel. And this is a car that's been 'looked after'!

Mick.

mickthefitter wrote:Today, done the timing. 3rd attempt to have a go. Thwarted by this and that two previous times. Car was set to 15 degrees BTDC! Now 7 degrees BTDC. Drives better but engine still gets too warm though.

Last week because of the thwart, I changed the oil and filter. The week before, I checked and set the points (after Quorn) and the day before Quorn I'd fitted a pattern fuel pump - one of those I've been told the lever pops out of and falls in the sump. So I peened the casting over a bit more with a centre punch. Oh, and in keeping with the usual old car bodgery, at least when I buy any old car, the old SU fuel pump came off with NO gaskets - just traces of Hermetite Red on the flange. No wonder it leaked oil as well as fuel. And this is a car that's been 'looked after'!

Mick.

That happened to me with the fuel pump not far from the nats. The arm was balancing on the engine casing! Fished it out and luckily I had a spare spacer in the boot which had a narrower opening which holds the pin in place. Still on there now and no problems.

Yes I know I remember you telling me! I can't remember who previously warned me about these pumps on the forum, but had he not, I would have just fitted the pump without trying to make the pivot pin more secure. It could rotate when I took the pump out of the box, but after I'd had a go at it, it couldn't. The pin looks hardened and I reckon the lever should move on the pin, not the pin go around in the soft alloy casting. Not that there was a lot of metal to peen over on the casting anyway, and if I'd have gone too mad, it would have broken away and I'd have made matters worse. I've kept the old SU pump and when I put my mind to it, I will try to find a new diaphragm for it and probably refit it. It's got AUF 1001 cast into the bottom though - not a number I've come across before ANYWHERE in relation to Marina 1800 fuel pumps!

They must have sold 1000s of those pattern fuel pumps back in the day though....presumably SOME worked out of the box!

hmm, I don't know how long folding the metal over the pin would last. Very little metal there to do that. You could cut a thin sheet of steel in the shape of the spacer with a narrower opening to hold the pin which is what I was going to do myself but the random spacer I found seems good enough.

Morris McKinnon wrote:hmm, I don't know how long folding the metal over the pin would last. Very little metal there to do that. You could cut a thin sheet of steel in the shape of the spacer with a narrower opening to hold the pin which is what I was going to do myself but the random spacer I found seems good enough.

You're worrying me now! I had thought the extra peening of the metal would be adequate, but I still preferred the design of the original pump. I've not searched for diaphragms properly yet but prior to buying this £20 (+P&P) pump off eBay, I HAD looked and came up with nothing. There's now't like doing a job two or three times to get it right, is there? Marina 1.8 - specific spacers also seem non existent - and seeing as the MGB uses an electric pump, MG websites will be no help either. Mini A Series spacers seem to have a narrow slot for the lever, but currently I've no idea if the hole spacing or overall dimensions of the flange mount are too small.

Interestingly - to me, anyway - two people on the forum advised me to fit studs to the engine block to help align the pump, rather than use the bolts supposedly on the car engine, as they'd had problems. When I checked my Haynes manual, it mentioned 'take the nuts off the studs...' and sure enough, when I looked at my car, the fuel pump was on studs. Changing the pump was one of the easiest jobs ever! Perhaps it also matters where the engine comes to rest before doing the job, and the relative position of the crankshaft lobe pushing on the lever. It gave me no problems at all. Wish all jobs were that easy.

The 'AUF 1001' cast into the underside of my old pump does not seem to correspond to any size SU pump at all. Maybe it's just a casting number. Confusing though.

Have you tried Burlen fuels.?
They took over the SU stuff.

This is from the parts book:
12G 4520

Same as 1300 so same as mini:

The SU part numbers give every casting/screw/jet/Spring etc a separate part number so AUF 1001 relates solely to the pump body. It will then be used in different pump configurations.


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