Fast Marina Magazine

I have been furgling under the Coupe today fitting the high pressure fuel line and return line. Whilst surveying the chassis legs from under the car, I happened to look into the offside wing and valence area.

Ooo, there’s a bit of surface rust I thought, I’ll give it a wire brush. This was the result, now with rust converter, before I prime and paint it.

Caught in the nick of time by the looks of it Chris.

Approximately 12-18 months worth of corrosion from new, on any 70s car I'd say there, Chris.

MarinaCoupe wrote: Sat Oct 14, 2017 6:43 pm I have been furgling under the Coupe today fitting the high pressure fuel line and return line. Whilst surveying the chassis legs from under the car, I happened to look into the offside wing and valence area.

Ooo, there’s a bit of surface rust I thought, I’ll give it a wire brush. This was the result, now with rust converter, before I prime and paint it.

080AE6E0-874D-4BBC-AE93-F38C080E744A.jpeg

oh god that does look like a close save

It’s original metal so I’m pleased that I found it in time.

Not so much what I did to my Marina today but whet I'm going to do. Decided that PTH desperately needs an alternator so will be converting her this week. The dynamo is fine but because I use her everyday I have to charge the battery after a couple of weeks as it slowly dies and becomes difficult to start. It's fine in the summer but this time of year it just doesn't cut the mustard! Any tips of what alternator to get or is one from the back of my shed good enough?

There's something wrong with your charging system or your battery then, as if it's used everyday there should be no problems with a dynamo.

You can get these which look like a dynamo but are an alternator inside, although they don't come cheap... http://www.powerlite-units.com/about-dynalites/

You can get uprated 65 amp alternators as well.

Either way, she needs an alternator as all the lights on the car flicker like candles when driving. People think I'm flashing them and pull over! I know it's the regulator box clicking away but only does it when the battery is starting to die. If the heater is on and especially the heated rear window and wipers if it's raining too the dash light glows red and starting the car the next morning usually involves a push down the hill.

Are the dynamo bushes etc all ok? I know alternators are better but I used to use my A40 everyday all winter running heated screen, heater, lights etc etc and never had any problems with it. Mind I had some good roads so no hanging about which helps give a good charge at higher revs.

Yeah definitely sounds like the dynamo is a bit weak, when you're moving it should cope with the load fine. Obviously for daily use an alternator is more ideal, but you know what I'm like...!

Changed 17ACR to 18ACR on the MK2 I had, also fitted highest rated battery that would fit. Family Morris 1000 dynamo system replaced with 11AC (50 or more amps) and then the 18ACR when the Marina went. Couldn’t break a dynamo system though and had the advantage you can change the battery with the engine running (handy for charging flat batteries) but there’s little headroom with lights and heater on with 22amps on tap. Not sure the C42 can be made fit?

The dynamo is pretty new, I bought it when I was restoring the car. Could have gone bad but I haven't checked. The regulator box was also changed around the same time though it did feel very light and cheap compared to the original but seems to do what it's supposed to do. They either work or they don't I think. PTH is fitted with halogen headlights which demands a bit more from the charging system. I don't know how to check a charging system anyway so wouldn't know if it was bad or not. If the dash light is on when running, it's bad that's about all I know! It's fine in the summer so I'm assuming (yes I know, never assume) it's to do with too many electrical items for the system to cope with.

A Simple Check is just to use a Voltmeter, across the battery terminals. With the engine running at 2000RPM and all electrical consumers on, you should expect to see 14 Volts. A fully charged battery is 13.8 Volts. The Main trouble with a Dynamo is a poor charging rate at low RPM and idle speed. When cars all had DC Charging systems, most drivers in stationary or slow moving traffic would switch down to side lights. Today something that is not seen and all electrical consumers are on from the moment the car is started.
Dave

Don't forget, it takes about 15 minutes running under normal conditions to recharge the battery back to where it was before starting the engine, quite a bit longer with that extra load on. Highly recommend using a CTek charger to keep the battery fully topped up.

started up my coupe after sitting for 5 months due to ongoing extensive bodywork, got it up to normal temperature.

been struggling since xmas eve as the starter only clicked and turned the engine over slightly and stopped when i tried then. Tried 3 different batteries and another starter with no luck, thought the engine had near seized until I removed the plugs and turned her over by hand

Issue was a stupid crappy jump lead set replaced with proper terminal and fired up easily