Fast Marina Magazine

The sun came out so I took the opportunity to take the turbo for a run and wax it.

Just need to fix the slow filling issue when at the petrol station and fit less spine crushing rear shocks...

Nice to be back on the road after 25 years!




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What shocks are they on the rear Ben?

Spax adjustable - I’ve a set of monroe gas ones to try instead


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Is it the shocks or springs then?

Pretty sure it’s the shocks. They are not very forgiving. Might try un winding them (if the adjusters will move) and see how it goes.


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Can’t wait for my ride in it

looks great Ben
wot about Monroe load adjuster rear shocks I've got and used these and found they stiffen the back end up but still have a good ride
baz

MARINAMADBAZ wrote:looks great Ben
wot about Monroe load adjuster rear shocks I've got and used these and found they stiffen the back end up but still have a good ride
baz

I’d like to tune the suspension based on spring weights and the weight of each corner, rather than fit assisted shocks. Even if it means changing the rear springs.

At the moment the hard rear ending is making the front over light at 50+MPH as it only has oil filled Ital shocks since the original spax ones burst.

I will change the adjustment first and see what that does but I feel all 4 corners need the same brand/bound/rebound to make it more supple and safe!


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I’ve got Spax adjustables all round and it’s taken awhile to get it right but there does seem a wide range of adjustment on the Spaxs.


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Ben, I have my Coupe’s Spax shocks set on three clicks only at the rear, as any more makes the ride very choppy.

Come on guys.
The news has been out for 20 years now.
You need to make your suspension more "compliant".
Softer springs and smarter shocks.
The only way to absorb bumps is to allow the springs to deflect in response to them.
Then you have shocks with good damping to control the rebound.
A shock with a spring on it is an anomaly.
This is why the original double-acting front shocks are a "fail".
They resist the compression of the suspension.
They would function better if they only acted on the rebound..

My original front shocks are valveless and the original 2 leaf springs are just right on the rear. I always disagree with those that try and fit 3 or 4 leafs on the rear.
I think coming from a bike background helps Kilroy-suspension setup is so more critical.
Setting the preload or spring rate so you use 90% of the range ( leaving an ‘emergency’-read big pot hole- 10% ) and then damp the springs to suit your riding style.


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Absolutely agree with you Kilroy and David.

Rear springs are standard saloon 2 leaf with lowering blocks, plus very wound up dampers. I shall wind these off completely and see how that goes. Will have to save up for a replacement set for the front torsion bar is standard saloon also.


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How low can you go...

I wound the adjusters right back, took for a spin and it was a lot better but a little wayward so I’ve now wound them round 1 half. They don’t appear to have a click adjust- not sure if they are just an older model that don’t have one...




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That rear suspension is spending a lot of time on bump stops, from the picture. The springs and dampers are doing very little to nothing, car has mini rubber suspension. The bump stops should be shortened by the same distance as the lowering block, to maintain original suspension travel. The only problem with shorter bump stops though is wheel/tyre catching the wheel housing/wheel arch.
Dave