Fast Marina Magazine

I am about to overhaul my axle. As well as replacing or repairing the saddles I also have to:

Replace the pinion oil seal - Am I correct in thinking I will need a special tool to hold the pinion flange while I undo the nut?

Replace the wheel cylinders. There seem to be loads available cheap as chips on Ebay - but are there different ones used on different models? Some sellers imply they are all the same where as others do the opposite....

Cheers, Robin

There are special tools available, however a simple 30” length of substantial angle iron will do the same job, just fit the iron on two adjacent flange holes so that the centre nut isn’t hidden and there is enough room around it to fit a socket.

Be ultra careful to do up the nut exactly to bearing preload tolerance as over shooting is total game over and a pinion out job to swap in a new crush sleeve,,it's literally just the tiniest turn and it exponentially grows.
Rear cylinders just look to be the common as muck 5/8 dolomite/spitfire/herald/ marina sliding type, there shouldn't be anything out of the ordinary there

Yes holding tool is the correct thing to use and tightening pinion nut back to exactly where it came from not to disturb the pinion preload over tightening will render collapsable spacer useless the best way is to centre punch the pinion nut and pinion so marks can be lined up when refitting the best tool for removing and refitting pinion nut is a impact wrench used the method for many years and diff has always been quiet after
Dave

Thanks all - particularly the info about the pitfalls. Nothing mentioned in the Haynes manual at all other than the torque setting. I shall be very careful :-)

Cheers, Robin

Hi Guys

I'm building a Marlin Kit car - this uses Marina suspension

I would like to remove one of the rear hubs - the bit with the wheel studs in it
I have removed the big nut
And broken my two jaw puller trying to pull the hub

Any suggestions - should I apply some heat?

There is a special hub puller to do it, the hub is on a taper fit onto the half-shaft. The puller fits over all four wheel studs and bolts down on them right ensure a straight pull. As well as tightening the centre pressure thread down, I usually use a club hammer on the puller to “gently loosen” the hubs grab on the half shaft.

I can see what looks like the end of a key
Is the hub on a taper and a keyway??
Sound like I will need to make special puller

Yes hub is on a taper and keyway very difficult to remove without proper puller. Leave nut on thread tighten puller and wack end of puller bolt it will then pope odd taper without flying across the workshop. Pullers can be bought on ebay for about £60 usually listed as for Triumph Herald and Spitfire
Dave

Is the car drivable?
Loosen nut. Drive around the block ‘enthusiastically’ and you’ll find it’s come off the taper. Works every time.

Thanks for the help and advice guys
The hub is now off
Next job is fitting a magnetic sensor thing to drive the speedo