Fast Marina Magazine

I am just collecting the final few bits before the engine installation and I have another couple of questions for the experienced

1. I have the original lockheed clutch master to slave pipe. It seems to be in remarkable condition considering its age. But I wondered about the plastic (nylon?) flexi pipe. It looks fine - but do they deteriorate with age, get brittle for example? I know you can get aftermarket replacements but experience has shown me that OEM is always best if you can keep it.

2. The clutch itself looks hardly worn although again it must be 40 odd years old. And I am sure I read somewhere that there had been some problems with recent replacements causing clutch judder so I am inclined to keep the original. What is everyone's opinion on that?

3. Any other suggestions before I put the whole thing back together?

Cheers, Robin

PS. Before anyone asks:
I replaced the clutch release bearing (previous thread) which proved easy. And I have a new clutch slave cylinder and a re-conned (by me) master cylinder.

The original style nylon clutch pipes are very robust and I agree better than the modern replacements. When handling, don’t be tempted to turn the metal pipes in the plastic, as you can break the seal, making them leak. This writes them off.

A new B Series clutch plate should be around 0.31” or a few thousands either way, that’s 7.875mm +/-.

I have not heard about any problems with friction plates.

Thanks Chris

Closer examination showed the clutch plate to be slighty worn at a little under the 0.31" so I think I will replace it. They aren't expensive.
The clutch cover though is (suprisingly) well worn with quite a bit of wear on the fingers. Also uneven, with one side worse than the other - strange. I wonder if it the original although it seems to be Borg and Beck. I would guess the original would have been Lockheed?

Cheers

I would not recommend replacing either the cover or the centre plate on its own replace them as a kit preferably from the same manufacture. As replacing one on its own can lead to fault including not clearing correctly clutch slip and Judder. Also ensure the flywheel face and Spigot bearing are in good order
Dave

I agree with David, replace the pair as a kit from the same manufacturer. The BL parts manual lists both the Borg & Beck and the Laycock clutches as standard fitment, and I’m not aware of any advantage to one over the other.

“so you pays your money and takes your choice”.

Thanks for the advice.
I have obtained a NOS Unipart cover and plate complete in their original blue and red boxes! The cover is actually made by Borg and Beck. I can't see any ID on the plate iiself but as both are Unipart hopefully they are compatible.

Cheers, Robin

As mentioned on "what did you do ...." thread I have found my Clutch inoperative yesterday. Closer inspection today indicates no fluid in Master Cylinder with some dampness around spindle inside bulkhead.
My Marina 1980 has a Master cylinder with the metal pot but my original Marina 1976 had a plastic pot from memory. Questions are; are the set ups interchangeable, is it worth purchasing a whole new cylinder set or, are seal kits OK?
Tempted to go the who hog!
Advice anyone?

Having identified my Clutch Master Cylinder is leaking am wondering if it would be wise to change the Slave as well.
How easy is it to extricate the cylinder? I have rebuilt, many moons ago, a Triumph Spitfire MK3 Slave - easy peasy to remove, but the Marina Slave looks like you have to force the actuation arm in or jiggle the gearbox etc
Ideas anyone?

There are several methods of clutch slave removal, but there are some common steps.

1. Disconnect the clutch feed pipe from the slave.
2. Knock the mushroom headed pushrod out from between the slave and the clutch release arm - I use a large screwdriver.
3. Remove the large rubber cover from the slave (the piston is likely to pop out and fill your sleeve with clutch fluid).
4. It is then possible to wriggle the slave out down the side of the clutch lever. If it doesn’t play ball, then you need to push/pull the clutch lever back to give you enough room, there are lever tools available, but I haven’t had a lot of luck with them. I use a 1” wide travel strap looped around the gearbox tailshaft and hooked into the clutch release lever and then the ratchet strap is tightened up.
5. Remove the old slave and fit the new one, together with the pushrod, before releasing the clutch retainer.
6. Reconnect the clutch pipe and bleed.