Fast Marina Magazine

Hi
I've just enjoyed the unexpected joys of a rubber fuel line bursting and pumping petrol everywhere :shock: . Luckly happened at startup when the engine was cold and I also had the bonnet up and so noticed it when I got out the car. I realise the potential consequences and I need to replace all rubber fuel lines (with braided ideally) if one of them has perished. Has anyone done this? and if so have they replaced complete from the tank to pump? Any advice is most welcomed, thanks in advance.

Eddie

Hi Eddie,

I have done all of mine in braided hose except the one that runs from the chassis and out through the nearside wing and into the engine compatment - mainly due to laziness.

I bought 5/16th (8mm) stainless steel braided petrol hose at a Restoration Show a couple of years ago. The thing to do is use a tape measure to measure each existing tube and make notes of the lengths that you will require, then add them up to get an overall length; add on 1/2 to 1 metre, because the first one you make may be a bit wonky. For each section, you will need two rubber end pieces and two hose clamps of the correct size. It's best to order it all in one go.

There are lots of reputable companies E.g Earls etc. http://www.earls.co.uk and it is also sold on EBay.

Start with a small pipe as the thing that you will want to practice is getting clean cuts and fitting the rubber end pieces over the tube, it takes practice and avoids wasting hose lengths. I took the pipes off one at a time and used them as a former for the new pipe length. That way if you can't get them all done in one day then the cars isn't off the road. I cut the hose and braid together using metal shears for a clean cut.

Hi Eddie, fuel hose failure is quite common on all classics these days, especially since the introduction of lead free petrol, as it rots the old type of fuel hose used in most cars of the 60`s and 70`s, the best answer is to fit modern braided lines where you can, and replace the main one through the chassis rail with an equivalent sized Marine quality fuel hose, a quick tip to get it through the chassis rail is to push a length of copper brake pipe into one end of your new hose until it feels tight, then disconnect the rear end of the pipe on your car, where it meets the chassis crossmember (DONT FORGET TO CLAMP OFF THE FUEL SUPPLY AT THE TANK END FIRST! ), Then slide the other end of your piece of copper pipe into the end of your old hose, once it feels tight in the end, you can gently pull it through from the front until it comes out at the slot in the chassis rail, don`t forget to take out the rubber grommets around the hose at the back and front first, or it could get tight and come off!
Frank.

First, I must say thanks to Chris and Frank for the great advice and for taking the time to reply. Secondly, my marina has no emission control system and therefore from what I can see no inline fuel filter - should I install one? or does it not matter? I'm sorry but you'll have to excuse my naivety, I'm just learning as I go along. Thanks again in advance.

Eddie

nice tip there Frank as i'm about to replace all lines on my TC , it have perished somewhere along the line as the car wan't start, with petrol in the tank - but runs sweet with a can and a electric pump connected.

Ediie - i ALWAYS connect a inline filter to my cars as theres bound to be some rust / debries in an 30+ years old tank

I agree with Norway-Triumph, I have installed an in-line filter between the mechanical fuel pump and the carburetor, you can buy a plastic one for a £1 or so from EBay. There is a small fairly coarse filter built into the petrol pickup inside the fuel tank, but it won't filter out the very fine muck that builds up.