Fast Marina Magazine

my first show of the year yesterday at battles-bridge and other than over heating in due to a long Que to get in and abit of steering wobble it was to bad until i headed home

was heading up to a set of traffic lights went to press the brakes and it went strait to the floor it stopped but only just pumped the peddle and it come back and was fine the rest of the journey
i haven't lost ant fluid and no leaks or weeps from anywhere that i can see my hoses where recently upgraded to braided and there was no air in the lines (rears to a while to clear out but shot the fluid out with a fair bit of pressure if i pump the peddle the revs increase slightly got me thinking this could be a master cylinder issue

I had a similar issue with an old Mk3 estate. Turned out to be master cylinder :-( Chris Weedon can get them reconditioned and sleeved with stainless.

Ben

I can get them reconditioned, check four things before getting it reconditioned.


1. Have you lost any fluid from the reservoir?

2. Have you checked the servo vacuum hose for leaks?

3. When you take the m/c off is there any fluid inside the servo canister?

4. Are you certain that you got all the bubbles out of the system when you changed the flexis? It's better to waste 500ml of brake fluid than leave bubbles in the system.


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i got one of them pneumatic bleeders at the weekend and i am dying to use it so will have perfect opportunity will have a go at the weekend

Just a thought, you need to bleed the brake circuits together on the ital. so open N/S front and rear then bleed - then open O/S front and rear together.

You can take the servo out of the equation, as even with no vacuum the pedal directly operates the master cylinder.

The only way for the pedal to go to the floor is if the master cylinder piston is not moving fluid - so either there is no fluid - or the piston seals are shot.
The fact that it recovered would suggest it was the seals.

Unless the Ital differs from the Mk3 Marina - there is only one bleed nipple for the rear - and that is the left side.
Procedure is to bleed both left side front and rear together, then bleed right side front by itself.
This avoids operating the PDWA valve on the bulkhead by having different fluid pressures front and rear.

yeah only has one bleed nipple on the back and i was thinking that now with the braided hoses there is little expansion room in the line so creating more pressure in the master cylinder?? so would make sense for it to be one of the seals

Braided hoses wont cause pedal failure. If the system has no leaks will be a master issue, on MOT Test we exhaust the Servo, then just keep light pressure on the pedal, to check for creeping to the floor in doing this we are checking the condition of master cylinder seals. On the subject of bleeding you can bleed them singley starting from nearest to the cylinder in the conventional manor. This will put the brake pressure warning light on, this sometimes reset automatically by pressing the brake pedal hard. If that does not work unscrew the switch three or four turns not all the way out you will here a click this is the PWDA valve resetting its self.
Dave

i have the car running so extra pressure with the servo to bleed the brakes if you have a servo fitted.
cheers barry

MARINAMADBAZ wrote:i have the car running so extra pressure with the servo to bleed the brakes if you have a servo fitted.
cheers barry

Servo only works if you have inlet manifold vacuum with the engine running. Can't believe that with a bleed nipple open that any additional pressure will be generated as even the slightest loss of fluid will have a massive impact.

Wondering if any progress made on this?

Have made arrangements for calipers to be replaced on my vehicle, been evidence of binding for a while and recently noticed front near side wheel very hot. Looking online at this subject came across the following which states pedal going to floor may be a symptom of caliper needing replacement:-

What common symptoms indicate you may need to replace the Brake Caliper?
•Braking feels soft and spongy (brake pedals are easier to push than usual, going all the way to the floor when stepped on)

https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/b ... eplacement

At the time of caliper replacement I will get all hoses, excuse my ignorance 2front/1 back?, replaced as well, since 2012 I have had MOT advisory for slight deterioration on both front hoses.

My vehicle is a Mk 3, are brake hoses the same across the entire range of Marina? reason for asking being that earlpart catalogue does not mention Mk 3 on the models list
http://www.earlpart.co.uk/catalogue%20marina.pdf

Also any advice on who I should purchase from? Use earlpart or another ebay seller.

Ian

Brake hoses are available through ANG Classics (and other suppliers). Fronts are the same as series 3 land rovers and small triumphs. Also available in stainless.

Front hose: GBH165 x 2

Rear hose: GBH166 x 1

Hoses

beniboyz wrote:Brake hoses are available through ANG Classics (and other suppliers). Fronts are the same as series 3 land rovers and small triumphs. Also available in stainless.

Front hose: GBH165 x 2

Rear hose: GBH166 x 1

Hoses

Thanks for the info, what is the advantage of stainless steel hoses against rubber, my rubber ones have lasted for 33+ years before being marked on the advisory as 'slight deterioration'.

Ian

There are two main advantages with braided lines that occur to me - one is they are more robust so should last longer in what is a rather harsh environment - secondly they offer slightly better performance because they do not swell under pressure - so you get improved hydraulic function which translates to less pedal travel.
In my experience the difference was quite noticeable.