rebuilding a 4 speed manual gearbox

[MarinaCoupe]

From what I think that you are describing, it's the later gearbox tailshaft where the pin/roll pin is fitted through the side of the housing, so that the bit that sticks out is the pin that the cup cover clips onto and the bit that points inwards runs in a slot on the side off the gearstick pivot ball.

The process is the same. Once the gearstick is out, it should be possible the get inside with some pointy end pliers and pull it out. Find a roll pin the next size up and cut it to the same length as the current pin. Degrease the hole and the surrounding area and use a little loctite when you lever it in with something like a socket behind it.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Kiwi Ute]

From what I think that you are describing, it's the later gearbox tailshaft where the pin/roll pin is fitted through the side of the housing, so that the bit that sticks out is the pin that the cup cover clips onto and the bit that points inwards runs in a slot on the side off the gearstick pivot ball.

The process is the same. Once the gearstick is out, it should be possible the get inside with some pointy end pliers and pull it out. Find a roll pin the next size up and cut it to the same length as the current pin. Degrease the hole and the surrounding area and use a little loctite when you lever it in with something like a socket behind it.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No, it's not THAT pin that's the problem, it is the one that goes through the selector shaft and holds an alloy fitting to it, this fitting has a hole in it for the small 'ball' at the very bottom of the gear stick, about half an inch from the very bottom of the stick.

[JubileeNut]

You are talking about the yoke part that fits on the selector shaft which the lower part of the gear stick fits in to.
You could drill a hole in the right place right through the part of the aluminium tail shaft housing where the roll pin is?
And yes there should be a round knock in metal plug in the end above the prop flange. May be this is why the roll pin has rotted away if water has got in?

If the above does not workout then it is a gearbox out job as you need to take the top plate off to either remove the roll pin at the other end of the shaft to get the tail housing off. don't think you can even undo the tail shaft housing and slide it off the back of the box as I am pretty sure the yoke won't go through the shaft.

[MarinaCoupe]

These are available new from Rimmer Bros

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-22G1422






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Kiwi Ute]

Mate.
Sometimes the nylon socket at the lower end of the gearlever disintegrates - where it plugs into the end of the selector shaft - and sometimes the roll pin that attaches the outer socket to the selector shaft does the same. You need to describe carefully which pin has broken for us to give the right advice.
If it is the lower outer socket that has come adrift then the gearbox needs to come out of the vehicle for repairs to take place.

Yep Kilroy, that last bit is my problem to a 'T', the lower 'socket' has come adrift, bits of rooled-pin lying in the bottom of the housing when I took the gear-stick!!

So I have to take gearbox out so I can take the top-plate off the gearbox to give me access to the selector shaft.
This is so I will be able to detach the shaft from the selector forks THEN slide the shaft back far enough to get the rest of the rolled pin out of it.

And finally refit the fitting with a rolled-pin.

I have everything undone and the gearbox all set to come out BUT! How do you get that stupid flange/lip at the top of the bell-housing past the steering rack?
Remove the rack?
Jack up the front of the motor?
Or?

[Kiwi Ute]

OK, got the gearbox out (Jacked up the front of the motor) and in the workshop with the top off - but now unsure how to get the selector shaft back far enough to get to the remains of the rolled pin and to re-fit the fitting and new pin.

AND I don't have a workshop manual (Doh!) so haven't a clue how to move it back - do I just force it past the last detent in the shaft?.

[Kilroy]

Remove bellhousing.
Drive out pin at front end of selector shaft.
Remove cover disc at rear of selector shaft.
Remove top of gearbox.
Carefully move selector shaft rearwards until it protrudes far enough to make your repair.

Reverse proceedings.

[Kiwi Ute]

Remove bellhousing.
Drive out pin at front end of selector shaft.
Remove cover disc at rear of selector shaft.
Remove top of gearbox.
Carefully move selector shaft rearwards until it protrudes far enough to make your repair.

Reverse proceedings.

Ah! Great stuff, thanks a bunch Kilroy, I figured is anybody knew you would.
I'll be out in the garage as soon as I have had my tea.

[Kiwi Ute]

Yep, bellhousing off and selector shaft driven back, got a new rolled pin (90 cents!) and as soon as I have time I will reverse the procedure.

I have NEVER had a gearbox where the bellhousing has the throw-out bearing sleeve and input-shaft bearing retainer as part of its structure - until now!

All other bellhousings just had a big hole in the middle.

[Kilroy]

Beauty with brains behind it..

[MarinaCoupe]

The throw out bearing sleeve is removable, there's an O ring in there too.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Kiwi Ute]

Well gearbox back in and ute on the road again, all work done in the driveway!

The rolled pin cost 90 cents - but oh boy, the hours taking the gearbox out and refitting it!!!

I bought a workshop manual but it was towards the latter stages of getting things back together so wasn't really that much help (Those grainy black and white pics are hard to decipher).

Getting the clutch slave cylinder back into place was one of the harder jobs, hells-bells, WHO designed that system for removing/refitting the cylinder!!

I used a tin lid of the right diameter as a cover at the end of the gear selector housing, 'glued' on with RTV, it look like a standard Morris part!

Thanks again for all on the forum for their advice!

[Kilroy]

If you ever need to work on clutch or gearbox again - consider dropping the whole engine/box assembly in one piece.

So much quicker, and much less hassle..

[jiversteve]

Piggy backing on this post, but are there any recommended gearbox rebuilders for Marina gearboxes, whether 1.8 or 1.3?
And/or are there any stockists of the Marina input shafts?

I know these are basically Triumph boxes, and an old Marina input shaft can be built in, but are there any complications that might cause fear of the unknown to a Triumph man?

[MarinaCoupe]

I would go to AutoGear they built up my hybrid Marina/Spitfire 1500 overdrive box.

http://www.autogear.uk.com

They were down in Essex when I dealt with them, but they are now in Walthamstow E17.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk