Fast Marina Magazine

I'm wanting to fit a roll bar to the front of my Mk1 Coupe...

I need a later lower arm so that I can mark where to drill t'ole! (I'm from Yorkshire, sorry)...

Have peope done this? Is it the best way... etc.

Cheers
Rob

Antiroll bars are the right way to go Rob but I have never modified them myself. Wider wheels will help out too as well as coil over’s on the rear shocks. One of our Scottish members done the coilover upgrade and he says it handles much better!

Cheers Ado...

It appears to have coilovers at the rear...
I have a gas shock kit and have poly bushed the tie rods (and will do the lower arm eye too)... just the rolbar missing from the mix I think !

New trunnions and bearings would be good but this might be past me, we'll see !

Thanks again
Rob

Never doubt your ability Rob! I’m no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination and I’m constantly learning as I go along!

I’m sure there will be someone close by your way for you to measure up and take notes from.

Sean

Don't be put off by the trunnions, I did my first one last year and it took 2 hours, the second one 25 minutes, the Haynes manual covered it OK for me.

All you need is a sensible toolkit, and axle stand and a jack.

Cheers guys... my fear of trunnions is healing...

So, back to the bottom arm.
Anyone got measurements or a spare arm/s ?
I can return them once I've done my measurements.

Cheers
Rob

HI,
Ive been slowly getting all my bits together over the last few years and plan to polybush the entire car, ep90 dampers, and have got new coil over rears. All new joints, trunnions and completely rebuilt brakes of course will be fitted. I'm not sure I want to modify the bodywork to accept anti-roll bars unless I really have to.
I'll get a telescopic kit and roll bars when funds allow unless the first phase doesnt work as well as I hope for.

I had these coil overs on my original '72 Marina 25 years ago and it did handle quite well at the back but the front was a bit soggy compared to the LE's that my dad had.

Starting this winter as I should finally have some time to do so.

Tony

Gee tc wrote:I'm not sure I want to modify the bodywork to accept anti-roll bars unless I really have to.

Why would you gave to modify bodywork for an anti roll bar ?

Rob

The anti-roll bar (ARB) passes through the bracket below the chassis rail behind where the Tie Bar mounts to the chassis.

The ARB body mounts bolt up to the bracket. When Paul Mondey did my bodywork recently, I got him to cut the slots required to mount the ARB. However on talking with Paul Viney, when Frank did his bodywork on his Jubilee, they had to fit a new chassis section and this had the later slotted mount. To fit the ARB you really only need to have one side slotted as you can slip the other side through the mounting hole.

I'll take some pics in the next few days, so that you can see what I mean.

On v early Mk1s, there isn't enough bracket to mount the ARB, obviously at that time they weren't thinking of having ARBs at all.

Hi Rob here's a picture of lower arm if it's any good to you,


the measurement for the ARB hole shows 45.59mm the left hand hole being the ARB hole.

This pic hopefully shows the Chassis bracket which needs to be "slotted"to allow ARB to fit.

Hope this proves helpfull, any other pics you want need just let me know.
Cheers
Steve