marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
Moderators: ClaytonSpeed, balmy
marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
I have finally started on the suspension set-up for the V8 & the 6 cylinder coupe.I have worked out the front pretty much but am not too sure whether to run a panard rod or a watts link for the rear.Which would be best?Keeping in mind the coupe will have @200bhp & the V8 at least 300.Appreciate your input & possibly some feed back from the other people who have V8 conversions.
Marina 6 one day,V8 the next
Re: marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
I made up and fitted a panhard rod, the full width of the axle as I thought the axle was moving side to side. With the fitting of the dolly sprint axle there was no room for the panhard rod and I haven't felt its loss, only a 'real' 130 BHP.
Brian
Brian
Shopping trolley(Mazda3)
2000 3 Ltr manual Jaguar 'S' type (love it)
1972 TC Marina Coupe (comfy everyday car)
1961 3.8ltr MkII Jaguar (Back to carburretors)(A lot more comfy with correct springs)
2000 3 Ltr manual Jaguar 'S' type (love it)
1972 TC Marina Coupe (comfy everyday car)
1961 3.8ltr MkII Jaguar (Back to carburretors)(A lot more comfy with correct springs)
- locost_bryan
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Re: marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
iirc the Bathurst coupe had a panhard rod - how did they mount it?dazza2623 wrote:I have finally started on the suspension set-up for the V8 & the 6 cylinder coupe.I have worked out the front pretty much but am not too sure whether to run a panard rod or a watts link for the rear.Which would be best?Keeping in mind the coupe will have @200bhp & the V8 at least 300.Appreciate your input & possibly some feed back from the other people who have V8 conversions.
If you're using the Falcon diff for the V8, will the XE Falcon factory watts linkage fit?

There are panhard kits for the MGB, which use a modified spring/shock mount plate for the axle end, and have a bracket on the opposite chassis rail. A fairly simple solution.

Bryan
Auckland NZ
1972 Morris Marina 1750 TC Coupe "Ozzy"
Auckland NZ
1972 Morris Marina 1750 TC Coupe "Ozzy"
Re: marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
Thanks for the input.
I have been told that panard rods cause issues with tyre rubbing on lowered cars as they allow for uneven movement of diff,unlike watts link.
It will be no problem fitting either type.Just reading varying views.
I have panard rod off old volvo,the watts link will come off a Ford(as common as dirt & just as cheap)
I have been told that panard rods cause issues with tyre rubbing on lowered cars as they allow for uneven movement of diff,unlike watts link.
It will be no problem fitting either type.Just reading varying views.
I have panard rod off old volvo,the watts link will come off a Ford(as common as dirt & just as cheap)
Marina 6 one day,V8 the next
- MarinaCoupe
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marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
The purpose of either the Panhard rod or the Watts linkage is to control the axle's sideways movement relative to the car body during cornering, making the car more predictable in cornering.
The Panhard rod is simpler to make and fit, it allows the axle to go up and down, however the movement is from the fixed point on one side of the chassis, so the axle is traveling up and down in a very wide sideways arc. The longer the Panhard rod, the smaller the sideways arc., the less it is likely to bring the wheels/tyres into contact with the body.
The Watts linkage is fixed to the chassis at both ends and usually to the back of the diff in the middle. This means that as long as the two rods are the same length then the axle can only move up and down in a true vertical.
The Watts linkage is the better engineering solution, but by using a v long Panhard rod you get an approximate solution. At the end of the day it's likely to come down to packaging under the car, what space have you got?
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The Panhard rod is simpler to make and fit, it allows the axle to go up and down, however the movement is from the fixed point on one side of the chassis, so the axle is traveling up and down in a very wide sideways arc. The longer the Panhard rod, the smaller the sideways arc., the less it is likely to bring the wheels/tyres into contact with the body.
The Watts linkage is fixed to the chassis at both ends and usually to the back of the diff in the middle. This means that as long as the two rods are the same length then the axle can only move up and down in a true vertical.
The Watts linkage is the better engineering solution, but by using a v long Panhard rod you get an approximate solution. At the end of the day it's likely to come down to packaging under the car, what space have you got?
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Re: marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
Thanks all,I was leaning towards watts link.
The v8 has a Ford/P76 combination diff,so just the back plate to bolt on.shorten the rods off a Ford diff & make some brackets.
The 6 cylinder is getting a Marina/Sigma combo diff with a 3.23 ratio LSD & disc brake setup.I have started to strip Sigma diff to add Marina brackets for leaf spring & torque rods,have already made brackets for swaybar.I will use the Marina rear plate which will adapt easily for another Ford watts link.The Sigma handbrake set up should fit between the diff & watts link & is a bolt on item to side of back plate.Just have to fiddle with cables to calipers.I will fabricate torque rods so they are longer,make them adjustable & recess them into rear set panel.This will be necessary as the car will be lowered 3"at the front & 3.5" at the rear & the torque rod will not be level.The torque rods will need to be longer as the std ones were too short & only worked moderately.The 4 door which is now the v8 was originally a 6 & had @165bhp,it did need some altering in the bum to work better.Don't get me wrong it handled great & went great,but I believe it could be so much better with these mods.I believe all of the above mods will be what I am requiring if I am going to have some fun.
The v8 has a Ford/P76 combination diff,so just the back plate to bolt on.shorten the rods off a Ford diff & make some brackets.
The 6 cylinder is getting a Marina/Sigma combo diff with a 3.23 ratio LSD & disc brake setup.I have started to strip Sigma diff to add Marina brackets for leaf spring & torque rods,have already made brackets for swaybar.I will use the Marina rear plate which will adapt easily for another Ford watts link.The Sigma handbrake set up should fit between the diff & watts link & is a bolt on item to side of back plate.Just have to fiddle with cables to calipers.I will fabricate torque rods so they are longer,make them adjustable & recess them into rear set panel.This will be necessary as the car will be lowered 3"at the front & 3.5" at the rear & the torque rod will not be level.The torque rods will need to be longer as the std ones were too short & only worked moderately.The 4 door which is now the v8 was originally a 6 & had @165bhp,it did need some altering in the bum to work better.Don't get me wrong it handled great & went great,but I believe it could be so much better with these mods.I believe all of the above mods will be what I am requiring if I am going to have some fun.
Marina 6 one day,V8 the next
- ClaytonSpeed
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Re: marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
Any pictures? :-)
'73 MG Marina Turbo Saloon - Back on the road with T16 turbo power
'72 TC Coupe' 'SLK' - 1950cc - Asleep - possible retirement project E.T.A 2049
'72 TC Coupe' 'SLK' - 1950cc - Asleep - possible retirement project E.T.A 2049
Re: marina enthusiast's thoughts/advice
Yes I have.I just have to get them off my phone & cameras.
I am restoring a GT6 the kids bought & a lot of the photos are mixed,have to sort them out.
I am restoring a GT6 the kids bought & a lot of the photos are mixed,have to sort them out.
Marina 6 one day,V8 the next
