CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
Moderators: ClaytonSpeed, balmy
CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
Ok, this is driving me nuts! (pardon the pun)
What is the best engine oil for a 1300?
The manual, not a haynes but an Autobook, which shows nothing, i seem to remember 20/50w (conventional?synthetic?)being the right thing, and last time i changed the oil and filter i can't remember what i used or where i got the info from! Also the type of oil, sythethic, semi? conventional. Anyone got any preferred brands they swear by?
What is the best engine oil for a 1300?
The manual, not a haynes but an Autobook, which shows nothing, i seem to remember 20/50w (conventional?synthetic?)being the right thing, and last time i changed the oil and filter i can't remember what i used or where i got the info from! Also the type of oil, sythethic, semi? conventional. Anyone got any preferred brands they swear by?
- MarinaCoupe
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CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
BL used to recommend Castrol back in the day. The correct viscosity is 20W/50 and it is nearly always mineral. You will struggle to find any these days. I use either Penrite (often sold at car shows and auto jumbles or available direct) or Comma available at my local motor factor. Halfords do a 20W/50 in a steel can, that will do until you can get one of the others.
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- MarinaCoupe
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CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
There are also Morris Oils (good name) and Millers which also has a good reputation.
This company sells all of them including Castrol by mail order and at shows.
http://www.classic-oils.net
Do a search for 20W/50 and all the brands come up.
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This company sells all of them including Castrol by mail order and at shows.
http://www.classic-oils.net
Do a search for 20W/50 and all the brands come up.
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Last edited by MarinaCoupe on Sat Feb 27, 2016 1:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- MarinaCoupe
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CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
I used to like Duckhams but it's no longer available, the smell and the green colour were great.
Millers & Penrite both list a 20W/50 synthetic and semi-synthetic oil for high performance engines.
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Millers & Penrite both list a 20W/50 synthetic and semi-synthetic oil for high performance engines.
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Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
I use millers in my TC.
1974 Marina Tc Coupe - 1950CC
1982 Morris Ital HL Estate - 7600 miles from new
1992 Lada Niva Cossack - brilliant
2008 Ducati 1098R TB21 LE 200bhp/99lb/ft of a monster on two wheels. All from 1198cc
1998 Laverda 750 Formula-rare
1997 Ducati 916 Senna - Awesome
!974 Honda CD175-awaiting resto - now stripped
1982 Morris Ital HL Estate - 7600 miles from new
1992 Lada Niva Cossack - brilliant
2008 Ducati 1098R TB21 LE 200bhp/99lb/ft of a monster on two wheels. All from 1198cc
1998 Laverda 750 Formula-rare
1997 Ducati 916 Senna - Awesome
!974 Honda CD175-awaiting resto - now stripped
Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
I use Morris (of course!). Mainly because it's easily available in five gallon drums so does well if you have a whole fleet 
Club archivist/chief anorak
1936 Ford Model Y- On loan from the CCLP
1971 1.3 DL Coupe (VRU362J)
1971 1.8 SDL Coupe (CAE419J)
1971 1.8 SDL Saloon (JHC999J)
1971 1.3 SDL Coupe (CHY79K)
1971 1.3 SDL Coupe (JGC240K)
1971 1.3 SDL Saloon (OVW292K)
1971 1.8 SDL Coupe (MCU274K)
1980 Ital 1.3 HL (NPB34W)
1936 Ford Model Y- On loan from the CCLP
1971 1.3 DL Coupe (VRU362J)
1971 1.8 SDL Coupe (CAE419J)
1971 1.8 SDL Saloon (JHC999J)
1971 1.3 SDL Coupe (CHY79K)
1971 1.3 SDL Coupe (JGC240K)
1971 1.3 SDL Saloon (OVW292K)
1971 1.8 SDL Coupe (MCU274K)
1980 Ital 1.3 HL (NPB34W)
-
david painter
- Posts: 1722
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Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
When I worked in the Main Dealer back in the day we used to use BP 15w50 in all cars apart from Rover V8 this engine used to run on Shell 20w50. Today I would use Morris classic motorsport oil in 15w50 mainly because its very good quality and is refineded by my workshop in Shrewsbury
Dave
Dave
- JubileeNut
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Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
I use Castrol Classic oils delivered to my door. Got a big drum of it last time
Castrol still do all the oils correct for your car.
Castrol still do all the oils correct for your car.
" Pru, Its Kicking off "
1973 Morris Marina TC Jubilee
2013 BMW 328i M Sport F31
1973 Morris Marina TC Jubilee
2013 BMW 328i M Sport F31
Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
Long answer = purely my opinion - but with the logic that supports my theory.
The A and B series engines were manufactured using the technology and manufacturing practices of the era.
The recommended oil viscosity had to do with both current oil technology, and machining tolerances.
Your engine when new required an oil of 20 grade to allow adequate pressure to be maintained in the plain bearings - whose entire design depends on this pressure to avoid destruction.
Now that most engines are worn to varying degrees, I would consider using any oil of lesser viscosity (10 or 15..) to be a serious risk.
The "50" part of the rating has to do with the behaviour of the oil when hot - so a 20W/60 works better than a 20W/50.
I admit that in a cold climate, a lesser viscosity oil will perform ok when things are close to freezing - but when your engine and thus your oil get hot - you will have a problem maintaining correct oil pressure.
Most conventional 4 stroke engines of this era suffered most wear when starting from cold - for several reasons.
Cold oil is thicker and thus resists circulating as readily.
Some parts of your engine rely on oil mist or splash for lubrication and this does not exist until the engine has been running for some minutes.
For this reason I decided to use synthetic oil - as it tends to remain more fluid in cold conditions, and thus circulates better from cold starts.
It also retains its lubricating properties better as it ages, so it tends to stick to running surfaces better until the next use.
If I were using a conventional oil I would find a 20W/60 from a reputable brand, and change it at the periods recommended by the car manufacturer.
Instead I use a fully synthetic 20W/50, and because it costs a lot more, I tend to delay my oil changes somewhat - our NZ climate is a little more forgiving.
I have a B series engine that has been in use since my first Marina build in 1996.
It has been bored out to 1905cc and runs 11.5/1 compression ratio, runs through a factory BW65 auto trans, has had several camshaft profiles and still runs the twin SU HS4's.
This engine has now travelled around 250,000km on synthetic oil and does not smoke or use significant amounts of oil between changes.
The first body - a Mk3 estate - basically rotted off it, so I moved the entire powertrain into a Mk3 saloon which is currently heading for the same fate.
Whilst the sheet metal is giving up the ghost, I have made virtually no impression on the engine, and I credit this to synthetic oil.
My driving style is considered in that I know what I am doing to the mechanical parts of my car by how I drive it - but I use full throttle quite often, and this engine is a blast to be in charge of. It has tremendous torque and is impossible to avoid losing rear wheel traction if you are in a hurry.
I do not think this engine could ever have lasted so well without having had a staple diet of synthetic oil - not just because the oil performs better - but also because my oil changing frequency has been rather remiss.
I have 12 vehicles and I just cannot keep my maintenance up to date - it would take my entire daily life to do so.
The oil I use is Mobil 1 Vee Twin. I discovered it when looking for the highest spec oil suitable for my 1975 Triumph Trident which I have owned from new.
This oil has a high level of zinc which is most important for engines with conventional cam followers, and yet is being increasingly left out of modern oils.
So - I guess I am saying that I think this is the best oil for your car - and I think I have proved its effectiveness.

The A and B series engines were manufactured using the technology and manufacturing practices of the era.
The recommended oil viscosity had to do with both current oil technology, and machining tolerances.
Your engine when new required an oil of 20 grade to allow adequate pressure to be maintained in the plain bearings - whose entire design depends on this pressure to avoid destruction.
Now that most engines are worn to varying degrees, I would consider using any oil of lesser viscosity (10 or 15..) to be a serious risk.
The "50" part of the rating has to do with the behaviour of the oil when hot - so a 20W/60 works better than a 20W/50.
I admit that in a cold climate, a lesser viscosity oil will perform ok when things are close to freezing - but when your engine and thus your oil get hot - you will have a problem maintaining correct oil pressure.
Most conventional 4 stroke engines of this era suffered most wear when starting from cold - for several reasons.
Cold oil is thicker and thus resists circulating as readily.
Some parts of your engine rely on oil mist or splash for lubrication and this does not exist until the engine has been running for some minutes.
For this reason I decided to use synthetic oil - as it tends to remain more fluid in cold conditions, and thus circulates better from cold starts.
It also retains its lubricating properties better as it ages, so it tends to stick to running surfaces better until the next use.
If I were using a conventional oil I would find a 20W/60 from a reputable brand, and change it at the periods recommended by the car manufacturer.
Instead I use a fully synthetic 20W/50, and because it costs a lot more, I tend to delay my oil changes somewhat - our NZ climate is a little more forgiving.
I have a B series engine that has been in use since my first Marina build in 1996.
It has been bored out to 1905cc and runs 11.5/1 compression ratio, runs through a factory BW65 auto trans, has had several camshaft profiles and still runs the twin SU HS4's.
This engine has now travelled around 250,000km on synthetic oil and does not smoke or use significant amounts of oil between changes.
The first body - a Mk3 estate - basically rotted off it, so I moved the entire powertrain into a Mk3 saloon which is currently heading for the same fate.
Whilst the sheet metal is giving up the ghost, I have made virtually no impression on the engine, and I credit this to synthetic oil.
My driving style is considered in that I know what I am doing to the mechanical parts of my car by how I drive it - but I use full throttle quite often, and this engine is a blast to be in charge of. It has tremendous torque and is impossible to avoid losing rear wheel traction if you are in a hurry.
I do not think this engine could ever have lasted so well without having had a staple diet of synthetic oil - not just because the oil performs better - but also because my oil changing frequency has been rather remiss.
I have 12 vehicles and I just cannot keep my maintenance up to date - it would take my entire daily life to do so.
The oil I use is Mobil 1 Vee Twin. I discovered it when looking for the highest spec oil suitable for my 1975 Triumph Trident which I have owned from new.
This oil has a high level of zinc which is most important for engines with conventional cam followers, and yet is being increasingly left out of modern oils.
So - I guess I am saying that I think this is the best oil for your car - and I think I have proved its effectiveness.
-
stoterstangen 90
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 3:05 pm
- Location: Soest, The Netherlands
Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
I use Mannol 20w50


Last edited by stoterstangen 90 on Mon Feb 29, 2016 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
Used Castrol- GTX? - 20/50 in the 80s with oil and filter change every 2000 miles.
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david painter
- Posts: 1722
- Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2012 3:52 pm
Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
Castrol Do a modern synthetic at 10w60
Dave
Dave
- ClaytonSpeed
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Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
Penrite Oil do a 15w60 Fully Synthetic - I buy through Classic Oils.
Ben
Ben
'73 MG Marina Turbo Saloon - Back on the road with T16 turbo power
'72 TC Coupe' 'SLK' - 1950cc - Asleep - possible retirement project E.T.A 2049
'72 TC Coupe' 'SLK' - 1950cc - Asleep - possible retirement project E.T.A 2049
- MarinaCoupe
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- Location: Bedford
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Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
Hi Paul,
I bet that you regret asking now, don't you?

Chris
I bet that you regret asking now, don't you?

Chris
- locost_bryan
- Posts: 3096
- Joined: Fri May 22, 2009 2:43 am
- Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Re: CORRECT/BEST ENGINE OIL? BRANDS?
Hmm, some interesting points raised.
Option 1 the "classic" mineral oil Castrol GTX 20W50 on sale $18.99 (normally $35.88)
Option 2 the "proven" synthetic oil Mobil One Vee Twin $34 per litre
(there must be a cheaper source and bigger containers)
Surprisingly, Mobil recommend mineral oils for the Marina 1800 http://www.mobil1.co.nz/products/alr.aspx MOBIL 1 0W-40 or MOBIL SUPER 2000 X2 10W-40 ($39.98) or MOBIL SUPER 1000 20W-50 ($29.98)
And I found a local supplier for Morris oils Morris Golden Film SAE 20W-50 Classic Motor Oil 5L $46
Option 1 the "classic" mineral oil Castrol GTX 20W50 on sale $18.99 (normally $35.88)
Option 2 the "proven" synthetic oil Mobil One Vee Twin $34 per litre
Surprisingly, Mobil recommend mineral oils for the Marina 1800 http://www.mobil1.co.nz/products/alr.aspx MOBIL 1 0W-40 or MOBIL SUPER 2000 X2 10W-40 ($39.98) or MOBIL SUPER 1000 20W-50 ($29.98)
And I found a local supplier for Morris oils Morris Golden Film SAE 20W-50 Classic Motor Oil 5L $46
Bryan
Auckland NZ
1972 Morris Marina 1750 TC Coupe "Ozzy"
Auckland NZ
1972 Morris Marina 1750 TC Coupe "Ozzy"